Puerto Vallarta: More than Beaches and Margaritas

By Carley Fairbrother

Two years ago we moved to the rainy west side of the Rockies. While we revelled in the easy-access to spectacular winter recreation, we found the gloomy weather in the valley difficult to swallow. By March, we needed a getaway.

With only a week to spare, we needed something quick, and while the major tourist destinations of Mexico have never had a big appeal to me, we decided that between time and budget constraints, Puerto Vallarta was the best candidate for helping us get back our sunny dispositions.

 

Puerto Vallarta

 

View of Puerto Vallarta from Cerro de la Cruz lookout, a short, steep hike from the city
Image: View of Puerto Vallarta from Cerro de la Cruz lookout, a short, steep hike from the city.

 

For people in western U.S. and Canada, Puerto Vallarta is one of the most affordable destinations for a winter getaway. It has been a popular destination since the 1960s and has a wide array of hotels and tourist amenities to suit any budget. Most people think of PV as an all-inclusive resort kind of place, but there are plenty of cute, affordable hotels in town.

Puerto Vallarta is a bit of a haven of safety in Mexico. The violent crime that plagues some parts of Mexico has yet to reach PV. The locals are friendly and often happy to chat. While you still have to be careful of scams, asking for directions or advice usually results in honest answers. Locals like to brag that your chances of getting robbed are pretty low in their town, and I didn’t see any evidence to the contrary.

 

Main Attractions

This is no shortage of things to do in PV. The ocean offers snorkelling, scuba diving, wildlife watching, parasailing, fishing, sailing, stand up paddleboarding. If you’re on a  budget, swimming and wildlife watching from the beach are a good way to while away your time for free.

 

Brown Pelicans
Image: Brown pelicans take a break from fishing.

 

On land, ziplining, ATVing, horseback riding, hiking, botanical gardens, history tours, food tours, and much more are on offer. Exploring Old Town and the Malecon (a boardwalk teeming with stores, restaurants, street performers and pelicans) are also musts.

In the evenings, a pirate ship will take guests out for a sail and dinner entertainment. Rhythms of the Night gives a Cirque de Soleil-like performance with an exquisite dinner set in within an other-worldly ambiance. There are also plenty of night clubs and restaurants in PV.

For the more budget-minded (that’s us) the local bus service provides cheap transportation between the resorts, old town, and the surrounding communities. Many of the tours on offer can be done cheaply without a guide by bus and/or boat.

 

Key Highlights for Me

Botanical Delights at the Vallarta Botanical Gardens

 

Cactus area of the Vallarta Botanical Gardens
Image: Cactus area of the Vallarta Botanical Gardens

 

I’m a big plant nerd, so the first thing I did when we decided on Puerto Vallarta was Google “Puerto Vallarta plant tours.” Up came Botanical Delights at the Vallarta Botanical Garden. This was a bit of a splurge for us, but very much worth it. Our guide was truly knowledgeable and passionate about getting people connected with nature. She flawlessly wove Mexico’s history and culture into her extensive plant knowledge. We also got to sample many of the edible plants (the gardens don’t otherwise allow people to touch the plants), including wild gum, cacao, cinnamon, coffee beans, and coffee tree nuts. The tour ended with an amazing lunch featuring some of the plants we’d just sampled.

 

 

 

Monkey Mountain Sunset Hike

 

The tailless whip scorpion
Image: The tailless whip scorpion was one of the many cool creepy critters we found as we hiked down from Monkey Mountain in the dark.

 

An hour’s drive north of Puerto Vallarta is the hip little surf town of Sayulita. It’s also home of Mexitreks – the other hit I got when searching for tours for nature nerds. Monkey Mountain is an intermediate hike about a twenty-minute drive south of Sayulita. There is information out there on hiking it sans guide, but there are also plenty of stories of people getting lost. In fact, we met a lost couple on our way back down. The real benefit of going with Mexitreks, though, was getting filled in on the natural history of the area. On the dark trek back down, our guide pointed out many cool creepy crawlies that we would have otherwise missed. Mexitreks has several other tours, all led by trained naturalists and for surprisingly good prices.

 

 

 

Surfing

Suyalita is known for a few things, but surfing and Norovirus top the list, and I got to experience them both! It’s possible that I acquired one while doing the other as the sewage situation is reportedly not great. Despite the evening of misery that followed, I loved the surfing. For $40 each, we got a private lesson and an hour of surfboard use after. The waves were perfect for newbies like us. Rentals are also available for those that know what they are doing, and there are bigger waves further down the beach.

 

Palo Maria Waterfall

 

The pool below Palo Maria Waterfall
Image: The inviting green waters of the pool below Palo Maria Waterfall

 

You might see this advertised on tour websites as a “secret” waterfall. It’s not really a secret (though it’s not particularly crowded), nor does it require a tour. The Palo Maria River is just a 15-minute bus ride south of town (catch the bus to Mismaloya/Boca de Tomatlán). From the bus stop, it’s a mile and a half of walk upriver to the first waterfall. The waterfall itself isn’t particularly impressive, but the pool below it is. The clear green pool enclosed by tall cliffs makes for a refreshing swim. There were about twenty other people there, but most of them cleared out soon after we arrived. There is a rope set up to climb the waterfall and explore several waterfalls beyond. It was our intention to go further, but I had spent the night before dealing with the aforementioned Norovirus and was content to lounge by the clear green pool of the first waterfall. This makes a good half-day excursion and could easily be combined with other adventures along the bus route.

 

Blue Footed Boobies

 

Blue-footed booby at Los Arcos Marine Park
Image: Blue-footed booby at Los Arcos Marine Park

 

I’m a bit of a bird watcher, so when I found out that the PV has some of the few nesting colonies outside of the Galapagos, I was on board. After a morning at Palo Maria we headed to Mismaloya (about another five-minute bus ride down the road) and hired ourselves a panga (a fishing boat) for $40 to take us to Los Arcos Marine Park. There are tours from PV, but beware of the cheap ones that advertise a cruise on a catamaran. You may find yourself spending most of your day sitting around (and possibly seasick) on a crowded boat.

For us, it was a five-minute boat ride out to Los Arcos. We saw the blue and brown footed boobies and the bird nerd inside me was delighted. The $40 dollars got us an hour of boat time plus snorkel equipment, so we hopped into the water for some of PVs best snorkelling. Unfortunately, it was pretty choppy with afternoon wind. The viability wasn’t very good and the swimming was a bit sketchy. Clay (also recovering from Norovirus) immediately started feeling sick. After a wave nearly raked me over a sharp outcrop of coral, we decided to call it quits. Our driver told us that the water is generally much calmer in the morning. I was just happy to see my birds.

 

Playa Colomites Hike

 

A nearly-private beach along the hike to Playa Las Ánimas
Image: A nearly-private beach along the hike to Playa Las Ánimas

 

About a half-hour bus ride from PV is the little town of Boca de Tomatlán and the start of the hike to Playa Colomites and Playa Las Ánimas. After wading across a river,  we followed the path as it weaved its way through subtropical forest and along paths carved into the shoreline. After about thirty minutes we reached Colomites. It is a well-known destination, so we were surprised by how small it was – just a sliver of white sand in a bay of green water. It was pretty, but a bit crowded (it’s also a stop for the water taxis), so we took a quick break and continued on our way. We were debating whether to continue to Las Animas when we came across a nearly-empty beach (there are several small, lesser-known beaches along the hike), so of course, we plopped ourselves down to have a picnic. Las Ánimas, while a favourite destination, is also reportedly crowded with pricey restaurants and an abundance of hawkers. If we had more time, we would have continued on, but we were content to relax on the empty beach. Water taxis leave Boca, Colomitos, and Las Animas regularly, so if you want to skip the hike, or just go one way, you can.

 

Rhythms of the Night

 

Acrobat entertainment
Image: An acrobat entertains the guests as they relax after dinner.

 

Rhythms of the Night is not one of Puerto Vallarta’s budget activities. We got our tickets for next to nothing by sitting through a painful timeshare pitch (more on that later). We were told to expect something like Cirque du Soleil, and we weren’t disappointed. What we didn’t expect was the ambiance set before and after the show. Costumed dancers, acrobats, and musicians wandered through the crowd, performing amongst the whimsical decor. After the show, we were treated to a tasty dinner and got to spend some time soaking in the atmosphere! Given the number of people attending the performance, the attendants did a masterful job of getting everyone on and off the boats, fed, and seated in the arena. If you are going to fork out some money for a night out, Rhythms of the Night is definitely worth your while.

 

Some Things to Be Aware of:

Foreign-owned resorts

If possible, try to find a resort or hotel that is locally owned. The locals don’t seem to mind all the tourists, but as more foreign hotels take over the beaches and ship money out of the country, this might change.

Environmental Impacts

All these resorts with their lavish buffets, toilets, and swimming pools mean significant pressures on the environment. PV struggles to keep up with sewage demands, and swimming pools take an awful lot of resources to maintain. Excess food means lots of wasted food in a country where 53 million people struggle to get three meals a day (World Bank, 2018). Check out the website of potential resorts to see how they are minimizing their footprint.

Scams

If you’ve travelled a fair amount, you might enjoy a bit of a break from scammers in PV. The taxi drivers take you where you want to go and have set rates. Most tour hawkers will deliver what they promise. However, there are still scammers around, so it still pays to shop around, check reviews and be cautious with paying third parties upfront. Be careful when leaving things on the beach when you go for a dip.

Health

Have you heard the term “Montezuma’s Revenge”? Rumour has it that it is a curse carried out by the last Aztec leader, Montezuma. The stomach troubles experienced by many tourists is revenge for the downfall of the Aztec Empire. Clay and I both fell to what we suspect was Norovirus. Clay is a very cautious eater when travelling and he was the first to succumb to it. While your standard traveller’s diarrhea can be prevented with a dose of Dukerol before leaving, and be cured with some readily available antibiotics, Norovirus cannot. It comes on fast and will likely incapacitate you for a day. Even if you are like Clay and safe about your raw veggies, street food, and water, you can get hit. That being said, be wary of ice, always ask for filtered or bottled water, avoid street food and pre-cut fresh fruit and veggies. We brought our own water treatment drops so we didn’t have to rely on bottled water and used our treated water to wash fruit we bought at the market.

Timeshare Hawkers

It wouldn’t be a Puerto Vallarta experience without at least one timeshare proposition. If you are on a budget, it could be a good opportunity to get some free excursions. We managed to swing heavily discounted tickets to Rhythms of the Night plus a free bottle of tequila. The trouble is that the presentations are filled with high-pressure sales tactics and always last longer than promised. They start nice and get increasingly more aggressive with their sales pitches. In our case, they resorted to calling us stupid for not taking the “amazing opportunity”. After losing a morning of exploring, we were left questioning whether it was worth it. In most cases, they will deliver what they promised. We were promised a “free flight” which came with so many stipulations that it was unusable. We knew this from the get-go, though so it wasn’t a big deal. Know that if something sounds too good to be true, it probably is.

Cheap Tours

Some of the cheap snorkelling tours were tempting until we read the reviews. Reports of long boat rides, short snorkelling time, loud music and drunken entertainment turned us off. Some people loved it, but it wasn’t for us. Check out the reviews before you sign up for something, and if what you read doesn’t sound appealing, consider paying extra for a more intimate tour or taking a DIY approach.

 

Budget Considerations

For folks in western North America, flights to Puerto Vallarta are likely among the cheapest you will find and you can likely find a deal on a resort/flight package. Depending on your tastes, this might be cheaper than staying in town.

The hotels we stayed at on both PV and Sayulita were in the $30-40 USD range and were clean, friendly, and had quiet pool areas and a good deal of personality.

 

Facilities

Medical

There is a hospital in Puerto Vallarta. Pharmacies can sell antibiotics, and the pharmacists are well versed in tourist stomach problems. Sayulita has an urgent care clinic and a hospital thirty minutes away in Punta Mita.

Transportation

Local busses run between the hotel zone, old town, and Boca de Tomatlán and cost under fifty cents. Taxis and Ubers are also fairly priced.

Banks/ATMs

ATMs and banks were easy to find. Most hotels and large restaurants take credit cards, but smaller shops and restaurants may not. American dollars are also widely accepted, but you will still want to get some pesos.

Communication

WiFi is available at most hotels and tourist restaurants. We found that several hotel and tour operators used WhatsApp to communicate with us, so it’s worth downloading before you go. We got by just fine without data on our phones, but I’ve been told that it’s easy to get prepaid SIM cards.

Restaurants

Restaurant dishes in Puerto Vallarta

PV offers a huge variety of restaurants to suit every taste and budget. It’s probably not a surprise that the most expensive places are along the beach. You will find a wide variety of cuisines represented in PV, from Mexican (obviously) to sushi to Thai.

Shopping

If you find that you forgot something, there is a Sam’s Club and Walmart in the hotel district. Grocery stores, pharmacies, souvenir stalls, and convenience stores are scattered throughout the city. Be sure to haggle a bit at the souvenir stall.

 

Some Final Thoughts

Whether you stay at a resort or a hotel in Old Town, or crashing in a dorm at a hostel, Puerto Vallarta has a lot to offer. While it’s a great place to go to lounge at the pool with a margarita, it also has a few adventures to offer and shouldn’t be overlooked by those who don’t want a resort vacation. Whether you prefer sunbathing, leisurely walks, or extreme sports, Puerto Vallarta is a great place to escape the winter blues.

 

Carley Fairbrother is the creator and host of the YouTube channel, The Last Grownup in the Woods, geared at getting adults outside and connecting with nature.

After a seven year career as a backcountry park ranger, she returned to school to get her Bachelor of Education and dedicate her life to helping kids get outside.

She loves to travel, but is most at home in the forests and mountains of British Columbia, Canada.

She enjoys hiking, climbing, canoeing, building forts, and eating bugs.

48 thoughts on “Puerto Vallarta: More than Beaches and Margaritas

  • October 5, 2020 at 6:34 pm
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    Wow, there are so many lovely pictures in this post. You have wrote it very nicely and I think I would love to see this place one day.

    .

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  • October 3, 2020 at 12:13 am
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    Puerto Vallarta does sound like a cheaper alternative for vacationing in Mexico beaches. I like how you have shared the options of accommodations and places to eat that appeal more to local diners. The sunset hike sounds interesting, as well as the Playa Colomites Hike. And the timeshare hawkers sounded pretty much the same wherever you go. lol.

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    • October 6, 2020 at 5:16 am
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      I wonder if the timeshare hawkers have Facebook groups where they discuss strategy and tell stories about rude tourists, lol.

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  • October 2, 2020 at 6:02 am
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    Puerto Vallarta sounds perfect – safe and beautiful. I loved the various things to do here – especially the secret waterfall (or not so secret as you say). The beach Colomites is a lovely find. It reminded me of a similar beach in Indonesia that we stumbled upon. Love the advice shared about staying aware and sustainable while traveling.

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  • October 1, 2020 at 6:57 pm
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    Love all the hiking you did in Puerto Vallarta. Not going to lie, as an avid backpacker and hiker I love hitting the trail but I rarely do it on vacation do beach destinations unless it is to secret waterfalls like the Palo Maria Waterfall you found! Those waters look so green and inviting. But I will say I do think the idea of a sunset hike on Monkey Mountain may be really interesting. Though I am not sure I can convince Darcee as she hates bugs and if she saw one of those tailless whip scorpions, I would become a tailless Eric!

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    • October 6, 2020 at 6:47 am
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      Haha. You could always tell the tour guide to skip the scary creatures. That was most of the fun for me though.

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  • October 1, 2020 at 4:32 pm
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    Wow so much to see and do, I love the beaut beaches and also the lovely stunning waterfall too x

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  • October 1, 2020 at 2:23 pm
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    Its such an impressive guide on Puerto Vallarta. It looks like a little paradise with so many options. Loved the inviting green water under the falls and blue-footed boobies bird 🙂 . I agree with your perspective on supporting the local hotels or home stays. To keep the tourism of any place sustainable, it is imperative to support the locals. These experiences are more authentic and showcase the heart of place. Thank you for these tips.

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  • October 1, 2020 at 12:17 pm
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    Beaches and margaritas sound good to me but this looks like a good list of gems! Also, thank you for your safety tips. Those are important things to know!

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    • October 6, 2020 at 6:52 am
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      I sort of wonder if we should have spent more time on the beaches with margaritas. Well, I was suspecting that I was pregnant (I wasn’t) so maybe virgin margaritas, haha.

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  • October 1, 2020 at 8:47 am
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    oh miss unusual nature to me. The waterfalls look so special and so beautiful! love it so much!

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  • September 30, 2020 at 8:08 pm
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    I admit that even though we’re close to Mexico I’ve never been. Glad to hear that Puerto Vallarta is a great destination though. Maybe a weekend trip once travel is back to a normal occurance

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    • October 6, 2020 at 6:49 am
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      Oh gosh, I can’t wait for things to get back to normal. I’m starting to feel like all this IS normal 🙁

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  • September 30, 2020 at 5:21 pm
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    Puerto Vallarta is a beautiful place to rejuvenate yourself and has excellent activities for whole family. The pics made me fall in love with the place.

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  • September 30, 2020 at 1:18 pm
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    We gave travelled to many areas of Mexico but have yet to visit Puerto Vallarta. Good to read that this is considered to be a safe haven in Mexico. I am glad to see Monkey Mountain from your eyes. I would not want to encounter one of those scorpions or get lost. The Palo Maria River waterfall is more my speed! Our ornithologist daughter would want to come with us to see those blue footed boobies!

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  • September 30, 2020 at 11:08 am
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    Puerto Vallarta sounds like a great place for a winter getaway! I’ve not been to Mexico before (not quite so accessible from London), but I’d love to visit and PV sounds like a great stop on a tour!

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    • October 6, 2020 at 6:41 am
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      Yes, I don’t think I met anyone from the UK there. It’s a long haul when you have other warm destinations much closer.

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  • September 30, 2020 at 9:36 am
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    Wow Puerto Vallarta looks and sounds amazing. Thanks for putting together such an impressive guide, I am definitely using this when things open up and make my way towards that side of the world.

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    • October 6, 2020 at 6:43 am
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      It’s a little ironic that I didn’t get the time to finish this article until no one could actually go there 🙁

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  • September 30, 2020 at 4:25 am
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    As a complete overseas travel novice, it makes me nervous to think about scammers, as we don’t have anything like that happen in Australia, at least not that I’ve heard of. It’s unfortunate that you have to be on alert whilst on vacation, but as someone who always triple prepares for EVERYTHING, I will read up on where to go and what to look out for when I am finally able to go overseas. Everything else looks amazing though! I would love to go snorkeling, although I’m not sure my swimming skills are the best 😅

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    • October 6, 2020 at 6:37 am
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      I’ve travelled to Australia and had 0 scam attempts. As long as you know the scams in advance, it’s pretty easy to avoid them. Scammers aren’t very original. It can take away from the experience though.

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  • September 30, 2020 at 3:01 am
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    I went to Puerto Vallarta in 2017 and I had a lot of fun, but did almost nothing you mentioned on this list, haha. What the heck did I do? Anyway, thanks for giving a more well rounded view of a trip to PV.

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    • October 6, 2020 at 6:34 am
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      I’m sure you had some fun and relaxation. If not, you would have remembered it for the food poisoning and rain or something equally unpleasant 🙂

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  • September 29, 2020 at 9:02 pm
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    We made use of the timeshare presentations when we went to Cabo for our honeymoon as well. Great advice, say you’re on your honeymoon! We still had to sit through the same presentation but they went out of their way to find champagne and upped the rewards from what they had first promised. It definitely made it worth it!

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  • September 29, 2020 at 7:41 pm
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    I actually loved Puerto Vallarta. Great that you have such great details that would help all. Puerto Vallarta is really beautiful especially the Highland Birds tour and the Hike & Snorkel tour.

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    • October 6, 2020 at 6:31 am
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      Ooo, I would have loved the Highland Bird Tour. I wish I’d seen it. I think my husband might not have been as into it though, lol. We went for a walk in a bird sanctuary when he planned on proposing. He had a really hard time distracting me from the birds for long enough to propose 😀

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  • September 29, 2020 at 4:28 pm
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    Surfing, waterfalls, plant tours, all of this sounds so much fun. The food looks inviting. I would love to explore Puerto Vallarta. It was good to learn that is safe unlike some of the other parts. The little town of Boca de Tomatlán has made me curious and it would be great to do the hikes.

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  • September 29, 2020 at 12:43 pm
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    I loved that you mentioned to go for locally owned businesses and to look for sustainable hotels whenever available. I have seen it happen in places Like Antigua Guatemala. Where foreigners are taking over and locals are really not happy about that. Tourism is starting to be looked down upon because they are feeling invaded.

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    • October 6, 2020 at 6:27 am
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      I can relate to that even in my own little town in Canada. We don’t have nearly the tourism that PV does, and most of our businesses are locally owned, but it gets so busy in town in the summer.

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  • September 29, 2020 at 12:10 pm
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    It looks mostly beautiful there, but I have to say that after seeing that scorpion, I’m out! I will have to just enjoy your pictures and stories.

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    • October 6, 2020 at 5:21 am
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      Haha. I guess scorions aren’t everone’s cup of tea. I doubt you’d have much chance of running into them if you stayed out of the wilderness at night.

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  • September 29, 2020 at 8:09 am
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    A fascinating place that I would like to see. I love waterfalls, so that Palo Maria Waterfall will impress me. Monkey Mountain hike seems terrific. For sure, I would go with Mexitreks, to know the natural history of the area and see so many cool creepy crawlies. It is such a great adventure and so many helpful hints!

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    • September 30, 2020 at 2:24 pm
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      The view of Puerto Vallarta from Cerro de la Cruz lookout is so attractive and this picture says a lot about the place.Waterfalls & surfing sound very exciting .The food looks great too.I would love to explore Puerto Vallarta for all that it has to offer for a relaxed few days. It was good to learn about this new place.

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    • October 6, 2020 at 5:22 am
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      I thought they were a great company. It’s nice and small too, unlike some of the giant tour companies in the area.

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    • October 6, 2020 at 6:21 am
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      I love botanical gardens too! The ones in PV were really neat. They were attached to a forest with some exotic species mixed in with the native forest. Then there was a big section of just natural forest.

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  • September 29, 2020 at 7:29 am
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    While the chances are not high that I will ever visit Puerto Vallarta, reading this, I liked to imagine that some day I would. This sounds like a perfect destination with so much to do, try, see and experience. I love it that you put things to be aware towards the end of the post. I would definitely pick a locally owned resort, too!

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  • September 29, 2020 at 4:49 am
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    This is the first time I heard about Puerto Vallarta. The view is breathtaking! I bet it was a wonderful experience. I hope I can consider this to visit after the pandemic.

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  • September 29, 2020 at 4:47 am
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    What a lovely place to go to and you have some great pictures, I would love to have a dip in the ocean and enjoy some great seafood by the sea as well 🙂

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  • September 28, 2020 at 10:47 pm
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    I have always wanted to visit Puerto Vallarta so this is helpful. I would definitely swim under the Palo Maria waterfall!

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  • September 28, 2020 at 11:48 am
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    Great place! Thanks for the pics. The botanical garden is so stunning.

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  • September 28, 2020 at 8:21 am
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    This place looks beautiful and perfect for a summer getaway I love the nature view I would love to go and visit this place someday. Awesome photos.

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  • September 27, 2020 at 6:36 am
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    Puerto Vallarta is indeed a perfect weekend destination. There are so many water adventures to do here. Parasailing here would be so much fun. I do love botanical gardens and try to visit the ones in the places I go to. PV Botanical gardens look awesome, almost forest like! It would be super cool to taste the local plants! Sunset hike spotting a tailless scorpion? Whoa! I wouldn’t miss that.

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    • October 6, 2020 at 6:22 am
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      I love botanical gardens too! The ones in PV were really neat. They were attached to a forest with some exotic species mixed in with the native forest. Then there was a big section of just natural forest.

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  • September 26, 2020 at 8:33 am
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    So much to do in Puerto Vallarta! It looks like paradise and all places are very inviting.
    That waterfall is something exotic and magnificent.
    And the foods, looks very delicious. I can bring my Dada here for our honeymoon 🙂

    Reply

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