How Surfing Started: did you ever wonder?

how surfing started

By Michelle Williams

It seems that whenever the question of how surfing started is brought up, people don’t really know a clear answer but there are many stories. For many people, the first thing to come to mind when thinking at the beginnings of surfing, is probably a surfer somewhere in Australia. There has been some debate about surfing, both for and against, in Australia, so it is understandable that many surfers feel they know what actually happened when surfing started. But what exactly did happen?

In many parts of Australia, including in New South Wales and Queensland, people would gather together on the beach for a long day of sand-bagging. In Perth, they would gather in the harbor on the weekend for a similar type of gathering as well, before grabbing their surf gear and heading back out into the ocean.

 

Where Did Surfing Actually Originate?

So where did this strange sport come from? One of the most popular theories is that it was all started somewhere in the Pacific Ocean. A group of sailors on a fishing trip near Japan heard a strange sound coming from the ocean and decided it was a good idea to listen for it. They soon discovered that it was a great deal of noise coming from the ocean that was difficult to hear from land.

After this discovery, they decided it would be fun to see if they could catch on to the ocean’s water noise. They eventually made their way to Tahiti, where they made their first landing in June of 1963. The island was small enough that it was easy to land on, so they quickly began to learn more about the ocean.

Surfers soon became interested in learning more about the ocean, so they made it their own. By the time surfing had caught on in Australia, most people had already come to know about it. Some of these early surfers had even traveled to the island and made their way to Australia to try surfing.

A really great story of how surfing started comes from an article that was written about an early surfboard. There was a tale about how when there was first the first big wave, it actually went just like that. “So as soon as the first big wave hits the beach, there are a surfer called Jack Loney and he immediately paddles out in a white water raft and then he starts paddling as hard as he can to get out of it. When he paddles, he hits the reef and there are two or three white foam balls floating around and they just start hitting his face. All he had was some kind of driftwood or a block of ice and he was able to catch these guys!”

There was another story about a bunch of kids who were riding their board in the ocean and they decided to do what is called a ‘whole raft system’ in which they put all their stuff on their board and they would just ride their board to wherever the big waves were. Because there was not too much surf to go around, there were always big waves for them to ride and the big waves became their playground.

 

Surfing Is Here To Stay

The main reason that surfing has a resurgence is that surfing used to be something that everyone wanted to know how surfing started, but now it is something that is just part of life. People are just starting to realize that surfing was once a sport that was popular but it is not just about that anymore. It’s just about the passion, adventure, and the thrill of it, but it used to be something that made people travel.

Surfers were able to travel to other countries and learn about the sport from those who surf regularly surf. The sport spread all over the world, and soon surfers began to travel all around the world. Today, people from every walk of life can learn the art of surfing. There are now surf schools all over the world and surfing is here to stay!

 

how surfing started

 

The Future of Surfing

If you are a long-time surfer, you have likely heard the future of surfing predicted by some of the surfers that you have read about in magazines and books over the years. In this article, we take a closer look at what surfing has in store for us, and what the future holds.

First, let’s consider the past. The past holds some very interesting statistics and information. A very interesting statistic that has been discussed in many surfing articles is the amount of people who have died while surfing. This isn’t the most adventurous hill to die on by any stretch, but it’s certainly not the safest hill to surf either.

The past shows us that there are far more deaths caused by car accidents than the ones caused by surfing. As with anything, the more dangerous it becomes, the more it will be illegal. In other words, the more dangerous surfing becomes, the less it is going to be legal.

In recent time, surfers have begun to turn to the high seas in order to get some of the best surfing opportunities. Surfers that have gone into this extreme sport are well aware of the dangers of surfing in the sea, and they also know that the risk to their health and possibly even their lives are too great to ignore.

The ocean is not a very friendly place for surfers to be. The conditions on the ocean are very rough, and the water temperature can change quickly. It’s impossible to predict the exact weather in the ocean. Many surfers find their board is just too cold or too hot on the ocean, and they can’t control the speed that they are riding at.

In conclusion, the future of surfing in the ocean looks very bright indeed. We are going to see an explosion in new, safer surfing opportunities that are coming to the ocean and to the beach. If you are a surfer and you want to check out some of these opportunities, then you will want to take a look at our article about what surfing has in store for you.

 

What are your thoughts on how surfing started? 

Is this a sport you enjoy while out in the great outdoors? What do you love about it? Do share your views and experiences below.

 

Surfer Guys

 

An avid writer, traveller, surfer (and many other outdoor pursuits). I have visited over 30 countries in the last 15 years, love to get off the beaten track and explore new destinations.

You are equally likely to find me with my laptop on the top of a mountain or a hidden beach.

My writing can be found across various publications online and I am always happy to write for anyone, just drop me a line : [email protected]

29 thoughts on “How Surfing Started: did you ever wonder?

  • January 5, 2021 at 5:44 pm
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    Interesting how it all started. It has definitely evolved into quite a popular sport!

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  • January 4, 2021 at 7:00 pm
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    Great history of surfing. I never wondered how it came to life. I thought it’s always been a thing! I grew up in a surfing town in the Philippines and now living in a surf town in Mexico so I’ve been around surfing most of my life. Though I can surf, I was not that into it since I did not find it very fun. But of course, that’s only my opinion. A lot of people actually find surfing a fun activity – I just didn’t join the bandwagon! Thank you for this useful piece of information!

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  • January 3, 2021 at 1:02 am
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    Thank you for introducing to us the history of surfing. And now it evolves into many kinds of surfing activities. Here in Australia, there are hundreds of beaches perfect for surfing, also in the Philippines where Siargao is famous for it.

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  • January 2, 2021 at 6:16 am
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    We have a couple of goid surfing spots here in the Philippines. One of them, Siargao is the surfing capital of the country. Thanks for sharing the history that information is new to me.

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  • January 2, 2021 at 5:31 am
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    This is actually a very informative blog on the history of surfing. I have never experienced surfing yet but I am interested in trying so one day. How it came to scenes is a good read indeed. I will surely learn one day under the guidance of experienced trainers.

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  • January 1, 2021 at 8:55 pm
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    I never did surfing but always enjoyed watching surfers. Your post is very interesting to know how it was originated. For me, it always looks very adventurous and dangerous but yes there are other dangerous stuff too. And if we get good training, then it is really worth doing.

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  • January 1, 2021 at 2:16 pm
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    A fascinating history of surfing. I didn’t know the beginnings of this sport. I have never tried it either because I am afraid of high waves. But it is an extremely spectacular sport. I like to photograph surfers.

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  • January 1, 2021 at 1:34 pm
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    It’s great learning about how surfing originated which had never ever occurred in my mind. I would have believed that’s Australians would have discovered. I see a lot of surfing happening in the state of Goa here in India.

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  • December 31, 2020 at 9:19 pm
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    I tried surfing once, in Bali, because it’s just one of those things you’ve got to try at least once in your life. Besides, I was intrigued because surfers are often seen as ‘the cool crowd’, however I have to say that I’m not cut out for the sport. It’s interesting to know about the history though. I had never heard of that before.

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  • December 31, 2020 at 4:56 pm
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    What a great post! I love surfing, but I never knew the story of Jack Loney! Surfing is great early in the morning in my opinion when it quiet and the tides are high!

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  • December 31, 2020 at 4:40 pm
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    Ohh wow that’s nice to know a little bit of the history of surfing. It makes you appreciate this water activity much more. I wish to do more surfing soon! 🙂

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  • December 31, 2020 at 10:04 am
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    Oh wow, I did not know that, such interesting facts. I would love to learn how to surf

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  • December 31, 2020 at 6:13 am
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    Woa, this is such an informative post about surfing. Honestly, I always want to do this activity, or at least experience it once in my life, but never have a chance to do it. It’s not popular in my country too, except for some resorts they start bringing this as one of their activities with the sea.

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  • December 30, 2020 at 10:09 pm
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    I grew up in a surfing community, it is an amazing group of people and the sport is incredible. Thank you for sharing the history.

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  • December 30, 2020 at 9:51 am
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    I tried surfing once and it didn’t go very well. I don’t think I have the sort of coordination required, unfortunately, even though I grew up in Australia where you’d think it would be part of the gene package. Interesting info though.

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  • December 30, 2020 at 4:43 am
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    I don’t think it’s ever crossed my mind how surfing started. That is so interesting.

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  • December 30, 2020 at 3:00 am
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    I never knew any of this about surfing but I loved learning the history. It makes me want to learn to surf even more now!

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  • December 29, 2020 at 8:04 pm
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    I’ve always wanted to learn how to surf. I think it looks like such an exciting sport. I never really thought about where it came from before, so this was a really informative read for me.

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  • December 29, 2020 at 8:03 pm
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    I cannot surf to save my life but I love to watch it. It was really interesting to read about how it all started.

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  • December 29, 2020 at 8:01 pm
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    This was a super interesting read. I knew vaguely where surfing originated, but I really didn’t know the details.

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  • December 29, 2020 at 5:06 pm
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    I have never had the right balance to try surfing. But I do love to watch and cheer as surfers catch a wave. If I were a surfer, I would definitely travel the world to try out great surfing waters. I am sure this is a sport that will be with us for a long time.

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  • December 28, 2020 at 12:24 pm
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    I have to admit, I never really thought about this subject (as I have never surfed and at the moment….probably will never do it). But I always thought it was an American/Hawaiian thing 😀 I know it is big in Australia but the thought of it being started near Japan….nope, wouldn’t even thought about it.

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  • December 28, 2020 at 1:49 am
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    I’m from Australia, and I’ve never thought about where it started. I wouldn’t have thought it started here, but I can see why some people could think it did too. I’m not a huge fan of the beach as I’m not a strong swimmer, and the ocean terrifies me hah. I went a boogie board (really hoping that’s not just Australian slang, and other people call it that too..) once when I was little on the ocean and a wave caused it to hit me in the head pretty hard, and that was the end of me ever surfing again!

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  • December 28, 2020 at 12:11 am
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    This was really interesting. I have never been surfing, personally, so I can’t say that this has ever crossed my mind. It’s just not a common activity where I live (in a landlocked area of Canada where we have many lakes but lack the conditions for surfing). That being said, I have always wanted to get out and try it someday during our travels.

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  • December 27, 2020 at 12:35 pm
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    I have never thought about it before. Wow, that’s very interesting! Thank you for sharing this story with me. I am sure I will be able to share this knowledge at a party sometime soon.

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  • December 26, 2020 at 8:12 pm
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    i’ve never really considered it’s origins to be honest. That was interesting to read. I’ve not tried surfing myself.

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  • December 26, 2020 at 6:48 pm
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    Some well-researched history! It is obvious how your love for surfing shows through in your writing.

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  • December 26, 2020 at 1:16 am
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    Wonderful to read this in-depth post on surfing and how it started! It looks like a fun and adventurous sport but the one that needs caution as well as it can be dangerous.

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    • December 29, 2020 at 4:50 pm
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      Wow! I never knew about this! Thanks for sharing!

      Reply

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